For Customer & Patron use ONLY
We take no responsibility for electrical work performed externally. We suggest wiring be executed by proffessional
Introduction.
Your D.M.S panel will be supplied with all its 'on-board - local wiring done' at the time of manufacture. You can do your own wiring if needed for the addition of new gauges and accessories.
The wiring gauges used on your panel will reflect the length of the wiring run and the expected load within the panel itself. DO NOT attempt to run functions such as Start, Preheat or Bilge pumps directly through the switch/ instrument panel. It is expected that operations such as these and any others with large current load will have a relay inserted of the correct value to carry out the required function.
A live and negative connection will have been made at the time of testing to test the correct operation of all the gauges and switches, we try our best however, sometimes these connections do not remain after testing.
Key switch.
You will need to provide a live feed from your battery system. This MUST be fused with the smallest fuse possible to cover the expected maximum load of your panel. The gauge of wire required should be calculated depending on the length of the run and the expected load - this is the correctly calculated value CCV. The following links will assist you with this: http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html , https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html , https://www.altestore.com/howto/wire-sizing-tool-for-12-24-and-48-volt-dc-systems-a106/ , all future statements on this site assume that this has been done.
Ignition on. You may need to provide a ignition live to your engine ECU and or Alternator.
Start. You will need to provide a switching lead to the relay controlling your starter solenoid.
The other connections on the key switch will have been done for you. There will be 'spare' lugs for you to use if you wish to. Ensure that up rate the fuse and cable size to reflect this usage.
Gauges.
Retro range: The Retro range of gauges will come to you wired up with the back lights wired to the ignition or a suitable switch on the panel. Each gauge will be supplied with a positive feed and negative return.
This will leave you to provide a sensor feed to the only unused pole on the rear of the gauge ( not for volt gauge this is fully wired).
VDO range. The wiring of the VDO range is the same as the retro range EXCEPT for the fact that there is no negative return for the back light on this range.
KUS range. KUS gauges are (mostly) supplied with their own pigtails. They are also unusual in having two back light functions red or yellow. Unless otherwise directed they will be wired with the red back light operational and the yellow wiring tied back. PLEASE NOTE that KUS follow american conventions therefore a BLUE wire is used for the 12/24 volt return and a BLACK wire is used for the sensor wire on each gauge ( not voltage ). To avoid confusion the sensor wire is bundled up behind its gauge.
Switch panels / Switches .
12 volt and 24 volt switches are identical.
The 'Amp' value of your switch will be clearly shown at the point of sale. Please never try to overload your switches as this will cause them to heat up and fail.
Lit switches. Lit switches will come to you with a live feed and negative wire attached to them. This leaves the center pole for you to connect to to serve your devices. There should be a fuse inserted between each switch and the device.
Twin pole switches. Twin pole switches will come with the center pole occupied with a live feed.
Warning lights and buzzers. These will come wired and ready for use except in the case of sensor relay warning lights.
The wiring gauges used on your panel will reflect the length of the wiring run and the expected load within the panel itself. DO NOT attempt to run functions such as Start, Preheat or Bilge pumps directly through the switch/ instrument panel. It is expected that operations such as these and any others with large current load will have a relay inserted of the correct value to carry out the required function.
A live and negative connection will have been made at the time of testing to test the correct operation of all the gauges and switches, we try our best however, sometimes these connections do not remain after testing.
Key switch.
You will need to provide a live feed from your battery system. This MUST be fused with the smallest fuse possible to cover the expected maximum load of your panel. The gauge of wire required should be calculated depending on the length of the run and the expected load - this is the correctly calculated value CCV. The following links will assist you with this: http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html , https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html , https://www.altestore.com/howto/wire-sizing-tool-for-12-24-and-48-volt-dc-systems-a106/ , all future statements on this site assume that this has been done.
Ignition on. You may need to provide a ignition live to your engine ECU and or Alternator.
Start. You will need to provide a switching lead to the relay controlling your starter solenoid.
The other connections on the key switch will have been done for you. There will be 'spare' lugs for you to use if you wish to. Ensure that up rate the fuse and cable size to reflect this usage.
Gauges.
Retro range: The Retro range of gauges will come to you wired up with the back lights wired to the ignition or a suitable switch on the panel. Each gauge will be supplied with a positive feed and negative return.
This will leave you to provide a sensor feed to the only unused pole on the rear of the gauge ( not for volt gauge this is fully wired).
VDO range. The wiring of the VDO range is the same as the retro range EXCEPT for the fact that there is no negative return for the back light on this range.
KUS range. KUS gauges are (mostly) supplied with their own pigtails. They are also unusual in having two back light functions red or yellow. Unless otherwise directed they will be wired with the red back light operational and the yellow wiring tied back. PLEASE NOTE that KUS follow american conventions therefore a BLUE wire is used for the 12/24 volt return and a BLACK wire is used for the sensor wire on each gauge ( not voltage ). To avoid confusion the sensor wire is bundled up behind its gauge.
Switch panels / Switches .
12 volt and 24 volt switches are identical.
The 'Amp' value of your switch will be clearly shown at the point of sale. Please never try to overload your switches as this will cause them to heat up and fail.
Lit switches. Lit switches will come to you with a live feed and negative wire attached to them. This leaves the center pole for you to connect to to serve your devices. There should be a fuse inserted between each switch and the device.
Twin pole switches. Twin pole switches will come with the center pole occupied with a live feed.
Warning lights and buzzers. These will come wired and ready for use except in the case of sensor relay warning lights.
Panel with Pigtail
If you have ordered your panel with a pigtail/s attached it will come with all wiring to make the panel and any switches work fully. Pigtail/s are approximately 600 mm long and are terminated with a water resistant, click lock or screw connector. You will need to connect your wiring to the unused side the the connector for all wiring.
Panel with wiring harness / loom.
Your panel will come with fully wired pigtails. The pigtails that relate to the panel will be completed to the agreed length and the connectors will be completed. These are: Any sensor wires, any warning light wires, ignition wire, preheat wire, start wire, main feed wire with heavy duty fuse and inline fuse, negative wire three spare wires. Where supplied any sensors, relays will be attached to the loom.
The loom MUST be supported each 300 mm using suitable clips, the first one being placed at the connector behind the pigtail and the last placed at the end of the flexible wiring tube.
The loom MUST be supported each 300 mm using suitable clips, the first one being placed at the connector behind the pigtail and the last placed at the end of the flexible wiring tube.