Hi Dave, 

I have received the tachometer sensor. 
Many thanks. 
Could I trouble you for some guidance on wiring it to the EMCS tachometer. 
The sensor has a two way spade connector, I'm guessing one is a permanent 12V supply and the other the pulsed output, but which is which? I'm also guessing the body acts as the negative for the supply?
Do you have a data sheet or fitting instructions? 

I have a volvo penta 2002 engine with a control panel that I think is known as 'Alternative A' (tacho, temp,oil and battery lights.
All our panels are custom made so you can have any gauges and switches that you need.

Can your panels always be made to work with volvo wiring harness. OK short answer is yes the long answer is. The modern gauges use the same number of wires as older gauges so if you have a like for like panel the number of wires will be right. All the wiring on the panel is done for you, you or your engineer will need to match up the wires that go down to the engine room. That will be a positive a negative, a wire to start , preheat and stop if required then one wire for each gauge.
won't I need different sensors for oil and water temp? Yes or no. All gauges work in the same way today as they did in the past. All gauges are set up as UK or USA settings, all our gauges are UK pattern. If your gauges are the same they will work if not you need new sensors - which we can provide.
Do you give fitting/wiring guide? Yes we provide both sides of a multi plug with your new panel. Every wire on the multi plug is labeled so that you can match it up on your loom. The multi-plug will not fit directly to your original loom plug - this deliberately the case. Manufacturers change wiring from time to time so we can not make a plug to fit all cases, also we may breach copyright if we try. It should take your engineer less than two hours to match up the panel and loom if you have the correct wiring diagram. DIY should take about the same time but please, please get it checked before you switch on.
​We also can provide a full loom with engine panel and all the relays that are required. In this case all the sensors are connected to the loom for you. 


Any advice, help would be good. I hope that helps

Dave

Hi CK
Yes that is quite possible. 
​If things do not seem to be working as you expect the first thing to do is check your installation. 
1.turn on your system and check that power is going to your gauge.
2. check that the negative is flowing freely back to the battery. A good negative is more important than a good positive to a gauge.
3. check that the signal wire is connected to the (correct)  pole of your sensor.
For a temperature gauge in a cold system the gauge should be reading zero. If your gauge is reading any value disconnect the signal wire from the sensor. It should now be reading zero. If not your gauge is faulty.
4. disconnect the signal wire from the sensor and touch the wire on to the body of the sensor (not the pole the brass part of the sensor). The gauge should jump up to max temp. If this happened your gauge and signal wire are good if not:
​4.1 touch the signal wire on the NEGATIVE pole of your battery. if the gauge jumps up to maximum  you have a engine earthing problem to fix. If the gauge did not move then you have a signal wire problem to fix.
5 if the gauge and signal wire are working correctly then you have a sensor issue.

​I hope that this helps.

You can see on the sensor below that there are two inputs. One is for a gauge one is for a warning light. So it is doing two different jobs in one sensor. The warning light part is a simple switch, in this case it will switch at 98C + or - 3C. When the switch is open the light is on.
The other pole is for the gauge and dose a different job. This pole senses temp and gives a known resistance depending on temperature.
This resistance is what your gauges are measuring.

So do you connect one gauge to each tab - no.
Will two gauges work off a single sensor? Yes should do in the worst case you can use a switch-over relay at the fly bridge for when you are up there.

All gauges and sensors work in the same way - however they are not all compatible.
Each sensor is designed to 'sense' a value range and send a value to its gauge in OHMS. 
So they all do the same thing - in the same way - however each manufacturer makes their gauges and sensors with their own set of values. There is not industry standard.
When you purchase a gauge it will have information on the operating range and THE INPUT RANGE. 
When you purchase your sensor you need a matching set of operating and input range or the gauge will not function correctly.
The best way to be sure is to purchase both gauge and sensor from the same place.